Weekend in Cochin

After a 13 hour bus ride on Friday on what is left of the National Highway 47 the port city of Cochin was reached. The first impression was the heat 28.5 degrees and very high humidity. It reminded me of Montreal. After 7 weeks at 2200 meters the heat and humidity were oppressive.

After a Rs 2.5 (about 6 cents) ferry boat ride from Ernakulam (main land) the island of Fort Cochin was reached. The first sight were the Chinese Fishing Nets in operation. It is really quite something to see the counter-balance system of weights which are just stones tied with cord to thicker ropes. The men walk out on the net frame to help sink it in the water. Once the catch is in, several men start pulling on ropes which then raises the net. The net is gathered to keep the fish in one section and the fish are then dumped out and brought to the roadway for sale.

Another interesting feature is the St. Francis Church built in the 1700's. It is supposed to be India's oldest church. Vasco Da Gama was buried here in 1524 before his remains were returned to Portugal. There are old-fashioned fans in the church which are made of dried grass covered with a lace cloth. It is still operable today.

A leisurely walk around the fort area allowed views of the Parade Ground with children playing in the water after the rain, the Dutch Cemetery which dates back to 1724, the Santa Cruz Basilica and Loafer's Corner. A stop in the Old Dutch House for morning coffee was perfect. No sooner had the coffee been ordered than the skies opened and the rain poured down. Perfect timing! Other points included the remains of Fort Immanuel which is now a navy facility and is behind barbed wire fencing.

Saturday afternoon was spent window shopping on Mahatma Gandhi road which is the main shopping district. All the larger stores are there along with hundreds of small shops that all sell their good on the side walk. It is like one continuous side-walk sale as you walk about town. there are virtually no sidewalks. People walk on both side of the road along with the bikes and motor bikes. the autos (3-wheelers) cars, truck and buses all use the road way as well. talk about confusion!

Saturday evening was an experience with David Devan's Kathakali Dance. This is a typical dance form for the region. David Devan has been dancing for years, He is now 77 and does the commentary during the dance. there is an involved make-up process which is part of the show. It was difficult to take pictures as the dancer moved! The music of drum and clashing cymbals was hard on the ears. At times there ear-splitting screaming as well. a night to be remembered.